Turbosmart e-Boost 2 Electronic Boost Controller Setup Tutorial Part 2

Host: We recommend that the e-Boost2 is set
up on a dyno. We’re at Pulse Racing to set up the e-Boost2. First, we’re going to start by setting up
the SP values to determine what the maximum level of boost we’re going to achieve. And
then we’re going to start playing around with the gate pressure to increase the response
of the turbocharger. First, what we need to do is get into the
boost menu by pressing to mode and boost button. So, as you can see, boost group one is shown.
Press mode to get into it. And that will display the SP value. To adjust the SP value, press mode to get
into it. So first what we’ll do is leave it at zero and see what the car makes on wastegate
spring force. If we press the mode button until we get the
peak hold boost, we can see our maximum is 12.6. So our target is around 18 pounds, so
we’ll turn it up. So get into the boost menu setting again by pressing mode and down. Get
into boost group one. And we’ll start by adding 20 numbers to it. So by going into the peak hold boost setting
again, we can see that our maximum boost has now risen to 13.4, which is far away from
our target. So we’ll turn it up some more. We’ll add another 20 numbers to it. And ramp
it up. Okay, so we’re getting much closer to our
target boost pressure now. Another way to tune boost is, when you’re in the SP value
menu, while the car is on boost, you can continue to press up, adding SP values. But what you’ll
see is the actual boost pressure going up. And you can set the boost up like that. So
this is what we’ll show you now. All right. Ramp it up. So as you can see, the SP value we got to
was 51, and the maximum boost we got to was 17.8, which is extremely close to our target.
So now the boost is set. The next thing we do is play around with gate pressure to improve
the response of the turbocharger. So by entering the boost menu again, scroll up to see GP
1. Factory set is at three psi. We like to set it about three psi below target boost
as a starting point. So if our target is 18, we’ll set it at 15. Save the setting by pressing
mode. And ramp it up again. So now we can clearly hear that the response
of the turbocharger has changed, and it ramps up a lot quicker. So as you can see, by increasing the SP value,
you can effectively increase the boost the turbocharger makes. At an SP value of zero,
we achieved this line. At an SP value of 20, we achieved this level of boost. At an SP
value of 40, we achieved this level of boost. And finally, at an SP value of 51, we achieved
our target boost of 18 psi. As explained earlier, the gate pressure changes
the response of the turbo by clamping the signal to the wastegate until a certain boost
level is reached. This keeps the wastegate closed until the user wants the wastegate
to open, aiding in response. Gate pressure is set at a level below target, as the wastegate
needs time to open to catch the boost curve. If gate pressure is set too high, such as
at your target boost level or over your target level, then boost spiking will occur. As you can see with this boost graph, by changing
the gate pressure from three psi to 15 psi, we got a much sharper increase in boost. The
sensitivity is factory-set at 20. And since we achieved the flat boost curve, no adjustment
was needed. The sensitivity determines how sensitive the
e-Boost is to changes in pressure. When the sensitivity is set too high, small changes
in pressure result in the e-Boost overcompensating in duty cycle, resulting in osculation. Sensitivity
set too low results in larger boost drop off in higher rpm, since the e-Boost is not compensating
for changes in pressure. Most setups use a sensitivity of 20. We found
with the responsiveness and wastegate size of the standard EVO 8 Turbo, we needed to
use a sensitivity of three to achieve a smooth line, since with the external waste gate setup
and the larger turbo, our boost curve was relatively flat. So sensitivity was left at
20. As you can see here, there is a slight boost
drop-off as you reach a certain rpm all the way to redline. This can be adjusted and compensated
for with the e-Boost correction feature. So what you do is you input the rpm at which
boost is beginning to drop off and where redline is and by how much percentage wise is boost
dropping off by. So for example, if your target was 15 psi, but at 5,000 rpm and 7,000 rpm
boost was dropping off to 10, then that’s a drop-off of 33%. So in the boost correction
menu, you would add the start rpm at 5,000, the end rpm at 7,000, and the factor of 33%.
That should effectively reduce or eliminate the amount of boost drop-off you have. So we’ve given the car to Pulse Racing to
work their magic, and this is what they’ve come up with. Pauli, would you explain what you’ve done? Pauli: No worries. Basically what we’ve done
is a custom pulse setter tune. The boys left it in our hands for a bit of time, and we
were able to work our magic and obtain 233 kilowatts out of the engine. As you can see
from the red line, the standard EVO came in with about 194 kilowatts. The boys from Turboshaft
left the car in our hands. We’re able to do a custom tune on it, which is the blue line,
making 233 kilowatts. We’re able to increase the boost. Great reliable car. Very fast car.
Great on fuel economy, drivability. Can be taken on a track, also down the quarter mile.
Very, very fun car to drive as a daily driver. Host: That’s all we got time for today. Thanks
Pauli, and the Pulse Racing boys for doing this tune for us. Pauli: Not a problem my friend. And the boys
at Turbosmart are welcome here anytime.

2 comments on “Turbosmart e-Boost 2 Electronic Boost Controller Setup Tutorial Part 2”

  1. OutlawUniverse says:

    I don't have this boost controler but that was incredibly helpfull.

  2. Jose Torres says:

    So at the end, the car was tuned? Well, then no need for the boost controler?

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